2004 Émigré, The Colonial Estate, Barossa Valley

The dark garnet core gently fades towards the brim, but much less so than you’d expect for a wine with two decades under its belt. One can only imagine the intensity in the glass when this was first released.

No agitation is required as aromas surge from the glass, barging one another out of the way: cherry, liquorice stewed plum, fig, raisin and spice, aged leather, and oaky warmth. With so much going on, it’s hard to believe this is really 20 years old.

The palate is bursting with sweet, ripe dark-berry fruit and a gentle peppery spice as it moves toward a warming leathery streak and a medley of rich, dried fruit. The tannins are gentle, gently hidden behind a tapestry of flavours. Time has undeniably tempered them, whilst vanilla and warming, woody notes emerge and hang long on the finish.

At 15.5% ABV, this is a pretty intense wine. But a brief stint in the decanter does weave wonders, allowing as it does time for the aromas to fully unfurl above and beyond the warmth.