2021 Montagny 1er Cru & Co, Laurent Cognard

A pure, light-golden shimmer draws your gaze deep into the glass. A delicate swoosh and you're in for a real treat; there’s an intoxicating minerality to the nose, reminiscent of fine Chablis, not something I have experienced in the wines from this region. A hint of sweet, toasted almond and hazelnut are enveloped by a scent of warming, herbaceous French oak. (I haven't even tasted the wine yet!)

Will the palate do justice to the nose...? Oh yes, the initial flavours are of delicate yellow peach and citrus, then you move on to a warming core of barrel infused loveliness, toasted hazelnut and dried orchard fruit, then it's on to phase 3; the emergence of a slatey minerality which relentlessly hangs on the palate and a very, very delicate, smooth creaminess to the finish.

In summary, this is essentially a beautiful Burgundian symphony, offering Chablis minerality, in tandem with warmth and elegance of Chassagne Montrachet and delicate, yet ripe, fruit character of the Côtes-Chalonaise, stunning.

James Russell-Grant, Mr.Wheeler