2022 Sancerre 'Le Vallon', Nicolas Millet

Wow, what a gorgeous golden shimmer that greets you in the glass, you'd be forgiven for thinking you've just poured a fine white Burgundy, Chassagne Montrachet perhaps, such is the elegant hue, it's not sauvignon it can't be, can it?

The aromas are wonderfully complex, I returned and swished numerous times to try and unpick the composition, citrus, lemon zest and grapefruit are the main contenders for your attention. But think again and you realise a sense of creaminess, a wisp white apricot, a very fine hint of toast and white pepper, it's all so perfectly integrated.

The palate is of equal complexity to the nose. Intense, ripe red grapefruit and citrus zest to start, progressing to a subtle honeyed creaminess, a hint of orchard fruit, a garnish of peppery spice. The finish holds long on the palate, unfurling further notes of white apricot and citrus zip. It really is a perfectly balanced symphony of texture, richness, and pure fruit freshness.

The reaction from my colleague when I encouraged him to taste this was priceless. It spawned conversation about the sheer skill and confidence required to take such intense, old vine sauvignon, and impart such texture and depth through very careful lees ageing and acacia barrel use, whilst always retaining the purity and clarity that sauvignon exudes.   

We chatted at length of how Nicolas Millet has seemingly produced a wine that combines Chablis, Chassagne and Sancerre, but putting pen to paper and explaining in has been a real challenge. I'm sorry but I simply can't do it justice.

Serve alongside softer cheeses such as Chaource or Brie, or treat yourself to pan-fried scallops where this will be simply stunning.

James Russell-Grant | Mr.Wheeler