2019 Monopole Clásico, C.V.N.E., Rioja
This style of Rioja has not been widely produced since the 1970s, and the secret to the production is the addition of 15% Manzanilla Sherry and extended aging on the lees in old oak casks, some of which themselves have been formerly used for sherry.
Upon pouring there's a delicate golden hue to the wine, typically my first thoughts are of a white wine with age or one that has seen some time in oak, indeed both are true in this instance.
The nose is full on with dried exotic fruit, nuts, a hint of almond and orchard fruit. It was not quite what I was expecting from a white Rioja but very pleasant none the less.
The palate is quite intense and noticeably weighty with dried fruit orchard fruit, honeysuckle and citrus with a streak of saline minerality. There's a warmth to the finish with a hint of oak and a delicate apricot undertone which reappears and hangs on the palate for an exceptional length of time.
I tasted this wine 'blind' by this I mean when I penned my notes, glass in hand, I knew nothing of its composition, I was simply handed a glass to taste, it was quite an unexpected experience and one that I thoroughly enjoyed.
I think it's showing beautifully now, but I'm also certain that it will see further development in the bottle over the next 5+ years.
This really is a wine to relax with and savour served along side charcuterie, olives, almonds and more besides, it really does make for a lovely summer aperitif that's just that little bit different.
I think those who take a chance on this will be charmed by its character and unique style made in homage to the great white Rioja of the 1970's.
James Russell-Grant | Mr.Wheeler
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"Wild aromas of dried pineapple, mango and salted nuts. Full-bodied with lots of fruit and a creamy palate with a nutty and eccentric aftertaste. Aged 15% in sherry casks. So cool. Drink and enjoy."
94 pts, James Suckling