2022 Chablis 'Envers de Valmur', Domaine des Malandes

Given Chablis' delicate style, there's a surprising level of colour intensity in the glass – pale by Burgundian standards still – but perhaps attributable to the warmth of the 2022 vintage. In the glass, a gentle swirl releases delicate aromas of melon skin, citrus, and grapefruit, along with an almost saline waft of the ocean.

On the palate, it’s impeccable; delicate and fresh with citrus and grapefruit initially leading, gently evolving into a 'slatey' mineral character, with a subtle, almost saline quality to the dryness that truly lingers on the palate. Following is a freshening streak of citrus, countered by an almost mild, creamy quality with a touch of tart pineapple as well.

The creaminess mentioned is where the real artistry in the winery has taken place, which, I imagine, is the result of very judicious use of old oak barrels for fermentation. Used cleverly to add a little texture and body to the wine, while never impeding the delicate, mineral character that Chablis lovers crave.

Without doubt, the winemaking team at Domaine des Malandes really have nailed it.