2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 'En la Rue de Vergy', Domaine Bruno Clair
"... a delectable vinous curiosity for fans of fine white Burgundy: the 2017 Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis En la Rue de Vergy. Nearly all the wine from M-S-D is red so this is rare as it comes and as tasty too. Mr Wheeler's Mark Cronshaw reckons it's best decanted, the better to show off its remarkable complexity, its admirably restrained exotic fruit and its extraordinarily long finish. Wow!"
Jonathan Ray, The Spectator Magazine
Tasting note
A highly individual, classy and complex white, Bruno's Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy opens up with a beguilingly delicate nose of white flowers, hints of grapefruit and blanched almonds. On the palate the texture is particularly noteworthy - clearly Bruno's red winemaking credentials push him to focus on dry extract and this is endowed with a wonderful medium-bodied, pithy mouthfeel and a fabulous saline edge. A little muted on first opening, with a little time it developed a fabulously expressive bouquet, with spice, crushed rocks, citrus, acacia flower and melon intermingling in an increasingly harmonious package. Great length, too... what a wine! And it will only get better with another couple of years in the bottle.
Critic's review:
"....En la Rue de Vergy has a perfumed orange blossom and canned apricot bouquet that manages to retain impressive precision and focus. The palate is well balanced, with a lively opening, almost spritzy in the mouth, and features passionfruit and Williams pear on the finish. Very fine."
Neal Martin, vinous.com